A German physician who is commonly accredited with being
the founder of modern general geography. He summarized, amongst
many other things, the current state of knowledge about the
sea in his book Geographia Generalis (later published in
English as A Compleat System of General Geography), first
published in 1650. The book was important for being the first
comprehensive
and objective collection of geographical knowledge since the
Greek Classical Age and for its reflection of a growing appreciation
and use of empirical knowledge to guide explanations rather than
the reliance on fantasy and speculation that had prevailed for
more than a millenia (although Varen did indeed lapse into the
latter on more than a few occasions).
Varen's most important contribution to oceanography was probably
the discussions in his book about steady currents being driven
by the wind, the first time this notion had seen print.
This led to motions in the sea finally being considered in terms
other than Aristotle's primum mobile.
He also attempted to categorize the motions of the sea, separating
them into a continuous western flow,
an observed periodic rise and fall of the sea surface that is
the tide (although their connection with the moon was suspected
though not as yet well-known), and various special flows including
what are now known as the Florida, Kuroshio and Mozambique Currents.
Varen also discussed varying theories as to the causes of the
perceived general westward flow and the tides. The explanations
for the former included a magnetic pull from the moon, thermal
expansion as a result of moonlight, downward pressure from the
moon as trasmitted through an endless atmosphere, the sun pulling
the water after it, the inability of the sea to keep up with the
earth's rotation, and more. He concluded that the cause was
uncertain although he favored the wind as a cause at least of
the general westward currents in the tropics as well as of other
non-tidal currents flowing counter to the supposed general western
flow. He considered the moon as responsible for the tides although
via a mechanism as yet unknown (and to be identified by Newton
in 1687).
See Peterson et al. (1996).
Currently there are three main types of vertical coordinate systems in
use in ocean models, each representing specific generalized vertical
coordinate systems.
These types are z,
or
vertical coordinates.
The simplest type is z coordinates, where z represents the vertical
distance from a resting ocean surface (i.e. a static ocean under
hydrostatic balance) at z = 0, with z positive upwards and
z = -H(x,y) the topography. () list
the advantages of z coordinates as:
- allowing the simplest of numerical discretization approaches;
- easy representation of the horizontal pressure gradient for
a Boussinesq fluid;
- clean and accurate representation of the equation of state for
seawater; and
- natural parameterization of the surface mixed layer using a
z-coordinate.
The disadvantages are:
- cumbersome representation of tracer advection and diffusion along
inclined density surfaces in the ocean interior;
- unnatural representation and parameterization of the bottom boundary
layer; and
- difficult representation of bottom topography.
Another choice for vertical coordinate is the
potential density
referenced
to a given pressure. This is a close analogy to the use of the
entropy or potential temperature in atmospheric models.
In a stably stratified adiabatic ocean, potential density is materially
conserved and defines a monotonic layering of the ocean fluid.
The advantages are:
- well-suitedness for representing the dynamic of tracer transport
in the ocean interior since it has a strong tendency to occur along
directions defined by locally referenced potential density;
- representation of the bottom topography in a piecewise linear
manner;
- better representation of the physics of overflows;
- easy representation of the horizontal pressure gradient in an
adiabatic fluid; and
- conservation of the volume (Boussinesq fluid) or mass (non-Boussinesq
fluid) between isopycnals.
The disadvantages are:
- cumbersome representation of the effects of a realistic, nonlinear
equation of state; and
- an inappropriate framework for representing the surface mixed
layer or bottom boundary layer.
The third popular vertical coordinate choice is the terrain following
or
coordinate, originally introduced in atmospheric modeling
in 1957 and usually defined as:
where
is the displacement of the ocean surface from
its resting position
, and
is the ocean bottom.
The usual convention is that
is the ocean surface and
the ocean bottom.
Sine
is monotonic, the relation defines a unique mapping between
the depth
and
.
The advantages of this coordinate are:
- a smooth representation of the ocean bottom topography with isolines
concentrated where bottom boundary layer processes are most important; and
- good representation of the thermodynamic effects associated with the
equation of state.
The disadvantages include:
- variable representation of the surface mixed layer, i.e. more surface
layers in shallow than in deeper water;
- cumbersome representation of advection and diffusion along inclined
density surfaces in the ocean interior;
- difficulty in accurately representing the horizontal pressure gradient,
which is the difference of two relatively large numbers.